...where do we begin...after running the gauntlet at the border, our 'guide' escorted us to our hotel, which was rather salubrious to say the least..our first impression of Moroccans was that anyone and everyone was out to get what they could from the tourists(thanks to the guide).. we were hurried into the medina - the old town and into a maze, nay, labyrinth of poverty and deprivation...four thousand streets crammed into less than half a square mile...the only thing on the menu was OUR wallets...Hassan was very welcoming....TRUST NO ONE (except him of course). As he was employed by the Government, then we innocently assumed that all would be fine...

You must be kidding...as the old saying goes..there's more than one way to skin a cat..or in this case COWS...To the delight of Glen, we were given a guided tour of the local tannery, huge and disgustingly smelly pits of cow flesh and salt water....can you imagine having to be half submerged in one of these all day, every day, (Texas Chainsaw Massacre, all is forgiven)

A day at the office in old Tetouan..(click any photo to enlarge it)

First impressions were not great..our guide whisked us around the city at the speed of lightning, asked for a full days pay for TWO hours work, a tip and; a 'gift' from England - a pair of Glens ripped trousers, before again telling us to trust no one and then disappearing.

Despite some of the people, Tetouan is a pretty lovely place, with the most amazing views of the Rif Mountains and, it had a total of 47 Mosques, which at prayer, are ALL full up.

Grand Mosque - Tetouan Medina

Rif Mountain Range

We left Tetouan a day earlier than planned, but all in all it was a good, eye opening experience to the realities of independent traveling.

CUTTING A RUG (or scamming a mug)

After our visit to the leather store..we were invited to visit the local souk, or in other terms, carpet shop..Our friendly man from the 'Government' run store invited us with open arms, offered us Moroccan mint tea (very delicious) and took us onto the roof, where he explained that he was from one of many Berber families, that live in the Rif Mountains and produce the famous Moroccan Carpets...we were then given a photo 'opportunity' and became Berbers for the rest of the show (us being the show)

The Berbers of Tetouan

He was now ready for the kill....we were shown some pretty amazing rugs and blankets, whilst sipping mint tea and munching on delicious local biscuits (we'd had no food that day) and we were of course told that even if we didn't buy anything then his family would be happy that we visited and seen their 'art' (which to be honest...it IS art)!!! High pressure sales tactics followed and we succumbed, so the upshot is that 2 gorgeous rugs are winging their way back home. We have since been told, that we DID get a bargain!

So, do first impressions last?

After our first day, we thought that we'd made a BIG mistake in our choice of destination to kick it all off..

We got scammed, it rained and we spent more time in the hotel, without food as we were too scared to go outside...a special mention to the bed bugs at the 'Hotel' Iberia...the friendliest inhabitants of Tetouan.

HOWEVER....it's just the beginning and with rapidly purchased bus ticket in hand, we made our way through the smog filled bus station to our next destination....Tangiers (Tanja)....READ ON!!!!

Jewish Quarter Of The Medina